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Vieques offers a simple, relaxing, refreshing eco-retreat. by Mary Gehlhar
With just five short days to recover from a long winter, my husband and I chose to visit Vieques, Puerto Rico as a quiet, beach escape that wouldn’t break the bank. A direct flight from New York to San Juan and then a transfer by ferry or puddle jumper to the island just off the southeast coast of Puerto Rico makes for an easy long weekend from the East Coast. As with any multi-connection trip, its important to pre-plan the connections, as flights to Vieques are less frequent and in higher demand than one might think. (And if you are squeamish about bumpy rides on small rusty planes, you might want to opt for the ferry.) The reason for Vieques' recent increase in appeal is simple. After pressure from its residents, the U.S. Navy left the island on May 2003, after more than 60 years of use as a shelling and testing ground. The land has since been turned over to the U.S. Department of the Interior, and it is managed under the direction of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service as a Wildlife Refuge in the Caribbean. A new, largely unspoiled retreat has emerged.
Our room was exquisitely minimal, a mix of wood and polished concrete in the Wabi Sabi style, which celebrates the imperfect beauty of nature. The clean lines of the cool concrete walls, floors and counter tops shaped the interior spaces into an open kitchen, bathroom with outdoor shower and an uncovered patio/lounge perfect for late-night gazing at the star-filled sky above. Simple, but not without luxury, the bed, dressed in Frette linens and a Marrimekko spread, faced a breathtaking view over the trees to the Caribbean Sea. The breeze kept the bugs away, but the mosquito netting lent a romantic veil at 6am one morning when I woke just in time to gaze from my pillows at the flaming red sunrise, perfectly framed by the concrete walls. This close relationship that the rooms have to nature is not just superficial. Hix Island House was the recipient of the 2002 U.S. EPA Environmental Quality Award. The entire structure was built to respect the earth, nature’s beauty and its power. Solar panels generate electricity and hot water for the rooms. Water is recycled to flow back to the lush native foliage and the guava, banana and lemon trees on the property. The block and reinforced concrete structures are also hurricane safe with metal louver doors and wood shutters that close to protect the interior. Venturing out of the property, we had dinner at Chez Shack, a quick five minute walk away. As with many of the island eateries, decent food accompanies a relaxed atmosphere and leisurely pace. The restaurant prices on the island are high, encouraging visitors to take advantage of the polished concrete kitchen back at the Hix House and to relish making your own breakfast with the supplied eggs, fresh baked bread and excellent Puerto Rican coffee.
The one requisite attraction on Vieques is a trip to the Bioluminescent Bay. The bay contains microscopic one-celled organisms called dinoflagellates, which emit a bright glow whenever they are agitated. With a quick kick of the legs or dip of a paddle into the night-shrouded water, it jumps to life and sparkles like irridescent glitter, an underwater disco-ball of bioluminescence. We visited the Bio Bay with a small group led by Blue Caribe Kayaks. We went just a few days before the full moon, which dims the effect of the water, and several tours weren’t running because the sky was too bright. However, we weren’t disappointed as we paddled through the dark, quiet water, free of the tourist boat motors and their thrashing swimmers. We slid from our kayaks into the warm water and when the clouds did come to cover the moon, we looked like angels floating with wings of light. The shadow of the industrialized Puerto Rican mainland, overrun with highways and Wal-Marts, and the arrival of a new large Wyndham resort on Vieques, has created a mix of fear and anticipation about the future of this enchanted island. Developers are circling, real estate prices are skyrocketing and the cafes and bars are full of speculation about the future. But we hope that the paradise that has been preserved this long will have a tranquil future, protected by its caring inhabitants and by the travelers who appreciate its rustic beauty, and casual charm. For more information, visit www.hixislandhouse.com and www.enchanted-isle.com. Mary Gehlhar is the Fashion Director of Gen Art, a national non-profit dedicated to showcasing and supporting emerging talent in film, fashion, visual art and music. |
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